Russian Toy

The FCI standard describes the Russian Toy as active, very cheerful, neither cowardly nor aggressive, curious about the outside world and strongly devoted to its owner. The Royal Kennel Club adds that it is loyal and eager to please, which makes it suitable for agility and obedience work. It was originally bred as a watchdog and ratter, so don't be surprised by a "I'm in charge here" attitude in a tiny body.

There's a common trap with dogs this small: they're so tiny that it's easy to raise them without rules. But a Russian Toy needs limits, a regular day and socialization like any other dog. Introducing a puppy to different people, sounds and places makes excessive barking or timidity less likely later on.

The Russian Toy suits people who want a dog that takes up little space but still wants play and walks. The Royal Kennel Club considers the breed suitable for flats and for homes with a small or medium garden.

For how your dog behaves when left alone, see our article on separation anxiety in dogs.

According to the history in the FCI standard, the English Toy Terrier was one of the most popular toy dogs in Russia at the start of the 20th century. Between 1920 and 1950 the breeding of pure toy terriers almost stopped and numbers fell to a critical level. Russian breeders only began reviving the breed in the mid-1950s. Almost all the dogs used had no pedigrees, and many were not purebred. Over time the breed went its own way, separate from the English Toy Terrier.

On October 12, 1958, two smooth-haired dogs produced a male puppy with striking fringes on its ears and legs, and it was decided to keep that feature. That is how the long-haired variety appeared; for a time it was called the Moscow Long-haired Toy Terrier. Today both varieties are recognized as one breed.

The FCI standard describes the Russian Toy as a small, elegant, long-legged dog with fine bone and lean muscle. The head is small and wedge-shaped, the ears are large, thin and upright, and the eyes are big and dark.

• Height and weight: 22–27 cm (8.7–10.6 in) at the withers and up to 3 kg (6.6 lb); the ideal is 25 cm and 2.3 kg.
• Smooth-haired variety: Short, close-lying, shiny coat with no undercoat.
• Long-haired variety: Moderately long (3–5 cm, about 1.2–2 in), straight or slightly wavy hair on the body; thick fringes on the ears and feathering on the backs of the legs and the tail.
• Color: The standard lists shades such as black and tan, brown and tan, blue and tan, red, fawn and cream.
• Skin: Thin and tight-fitting.

It's easy to mistake the smooth-haired variety for a Chihuahua. A pedigree from a registered breeder confirms the breed; be careful with listings where the breed isn't clear.

The Royal Kennel Club rates grooming as "every day"; for the long-haired variety that means a real daily brush, and for the smooth-haired a quick brush and a general check.

• Brushing: For the long-haired variety, brush the ear fringes and the backs of the legs before tangles form. For the smooth-haired, a soft brush a few times a week is enough.
• Dental care: Tartar builds up fast in small mouths; get your dog used to tooth brushing as a puppy.
• Nails: Check them regularly and handle the fine paws gently.
• Cold weather: A short-coated, thin-skinned dog gets cold quickly. Dogs Trust notes that short-haired breeds and puppies may need a coat when it turns chilly. See our article on dogs in cold weather.
• ID: Its tiny size makes it easy to slip away or get lost; keep an ID tag on the collar.

Our article on dog coat care walks through grooming step by step.

The Royal Kennel Club recommends up to an hour of exercise a day. You can split it into two or three short walks plus play. Even for a small dog, daily sniffing games, hide-and-seek at home or short training sessions tire the mind; see our article on sniffing games for ideas.

• Reward-based work: The breed is eager to please; short, rewarded and consistent lessons work well. There's no need for harsh methods.
• Jumping from heights: According to UFAW, the most common cause of front-leg fractures in toy breeds is jumping or falling from a height or from someone's arms. Don't let jumping off the sofa or bed become a habit; provide a ramp or steps.
• Carrying safely: Don't let kids pick the dog up and carry it standing; teach them to pet it while sitting on the floor.
• Leash: It may pull; choose a harness to avoid straining the neck.

The Russian Toy doesn't need a special food; a complete and balanced dog food suited to its age and size is enough. Two things matter in very small dogs: meal routine and weight.

• Small meals: In puppies and very small dogs, going too long without food can drop blood sugar (see the health section below). Plan the number and size of meals with your vet.
• Measure it: A few extra grams is a big percentage gain for a dog this size. Weigh the food and subtract treats from the daily amount.
• Weight: If you can feel the ribs under a thin layer of fat, the weight is good.

Some human foods are dangerous for dogs; check our list of foods dogs should never eat.

According to the Royal Kennel Club, the breed has no specific Breed Watch point of concern, and the recommended screening is an eye examination. Still, very small dogs share some common problems. The following is for information only; ask your veterinarian for diagnosis and treatment.

Front-leg fractures

Science for Animal Welfare (UFAW) writes that fractures of the lower part of the forearm (radius and ulna) are more common in toy and miniature breeds than in larger dogs and can happen with only minor trauma. The most common cause is jumping or falling from a height or from someone's arms. These fractures can be slow to heal; according to UFAW, casts and splints often aren't enough and surgery is usually needed. We found no breed-specific figure for the Russian Toy, but at under 3 kg the same risk applies. The best prevention is avoiding falls.

Dental disease

In a 2021 UK study, 12.5% of dogs were diagnosed with periodontal (gum) disease within a year. Dogs with a smaller body weight had higher odds, and the risk fell as weight rose. One of the highest-risk breeds was the Toy Poodle; the Russian Toy falls into the same size group. Brushing and regular dental checks are the key steps; if you notice bad breath, red gums or reluctance to eat, show your vet.

Slipping kneecaps

Patellar luxation is a joint problem in which the kneecap slips out of place, which can cause limping or skipping on one back leg. In a 2016 study of English veterinary records it was found in 1.3% of dogs; the risk was much higher in toy breeds such as the Pomeranian, Chihuahua and Yorkshire Terrier, and dogs weighing less than the average for their breed and sex also had higher odds. We found no separate figure for the Russian Toy, but it's worth keeping in mind in dogs of similar size. If your dog skips or holds up a back leg while walking, show your vet.

Low blood sugar

Hypoglycemia means the blood sugar (glucose) has dropped too low. According to a 2018 review by Idowu and Heading, it is a relatively common problem in veterinary practice, ranging from subtle signs to a life-threatening emergency. FirstVet notes that puppies under three months old haven't fully developed the ability to regulate blood sugar and that toy and miniature breeds are especially susceptible; fasting, stomach and bowel upset, a drop in body temperature and intestinal parasites can trigger it. Signs include weakness, being very sleepy, a wobbly gait, trembling, seizures and loss of consciousness. If you see any of these, go to your vet or the nearest clinic right away. Regular meals and keeping the puppy warm are the preventive advice.

The "teacup" myth

The Royal Kennel Club does not recognize any "teacup" breeds. It says such dogs are often bred from the runts of litters, may live shorter lives and can have breathing problems, fragile bones, joint, heart and stomach problems. The standard already sets the ideal size (22–27 cm, up to 3 kg); a breeder aiming below that is putting health second. Stay away from puppies sold as "mini" or "teacup".

The Royal Kennel Club says the breed is expected to live "over 12 years". We couldn't find a detailed life table for the Russian Toy. General data show that small, long-nosed dogs live longer than large or flat-faced ones: in the 2024 UK study by McMillan and colleagues, the median lifespan of small, long-nosed breeds was 13.3 years.

Regular vet checks, dental care, a healthy weight and protection from falls are the most concrete ways to help this dog live longer.

• Consider a shelter too: Toy breeds and their mixes also end up in shelters. Our article on adopting a dog from a shelter covers the first steps.
• If you buy from a breeder: See the parents with the puppies in a home environment. Ask for an eye exam and a pedigree. Avoid anyone promising a "teacup" or "mini"; the RSPCA also says those words can be a sign puppy dealers use to attract attention.
• Home safety: High furniture, door gaps and a child's arms are hazards for this dog; plan for them from the start.
• Time and budget: Be ready for dental care, short but regular walks and the possible cost of a fracture or kneecap surgery.
• Legal registration: In Türkiye, owned dogs must be microchipped and registered in the PETVET system. See our article on PETVET registration and microchips.